Taste of Africa

I have been back from South Africa for almost 2 weeks now, and it is still so present in my mind - the sights, the smells, and the colors. Yesterday I woke up longing for a Moroccan soup called Harira, a delicious and fragrant bowl of goodness that warms you like no other. When I used to go to New York every February, I would go to a restaurant called Bar 6 with my friends Harold and Barbara, and slurp huge spoonsful of the stuff until my frozen insides felt human again. It was the only thing that worked to thaw out my weak California blood.

I was feeling ambitious enough to attempt a new recipe, so I found one online that didn't involve any overnight prep and reasonably common ingredients. This soup is traditionally used to break the fast over Ramadan, so it is chock full of flavor and hearty ingredients. It's not heavy, though, which is why you can eat a huge bowl of it and not feel sick.

Below is the recipe that I used, which I had to adjust a bit (there was no salt in the original recipe - no salt??). It was easy and came out very well. For the cubed lamb, I had my butcher cut up some lamb tenderloin for me, and he left on some of the fat which helped to make a hearty stock.

The best part of all was the smell - all of those beautiful spices and aromatics filling the house with their heady aroma. It was wonderful in our sunny San Francisco kitchen - I can only imagine how much better it would be in a cold climate. You will want to use fresh spices if possible to get the full effects of this beautiful and fragrant dish.

Harira
- 1 lb cubed lamb meat
- 1 t. ground turmeric
- 1 1/2 t. ground black pepper
- 1 - 2 t. salt (to taste)
- 1 t. ground cinnamon
- 1/4 t. ground ginger
- 1/4 t. ground cayenne pepper
- 2 T. butter
- 3/4 C. chopped celery
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 red onion, chopped
- 1/2 C. chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 (29 oz) can diced tomatoes
- 7 C. water
- 3/4 C. green lentils
- 1 (15 oz) can garbanzo beans, drained
- 4 oz. vermicelli pasta
- 2 eggs, beaten
- 1 lemon, juiced

1. Place the lamb, spices, butter, celery, onion and cilantro in a large soup pot over low heat. Stir frequently for 5 minutes.
2. Drain tomatoes, reserve juice. Pour tomatoes into the mixture and let simmer for 15 min.
3. Pour tomato juice, 7 cups of water, and the lentils into the pot. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer. Let the soup simmer, covered, for 2 hours.
4. About 10 minutes before serving, turn the heat to medium-high, place chickpeas and noodles into the soup, let cook about 10 minutes.
5. Stir in lemon juice and eggs, let eggs cook 1 minute
6. Correct seasonings and serve.

Take Me to the River

I am writing this from Livingstone, Zambia - sitting on my balcony overlooking the Zambezi River. We flew here yesterday from Cape Town, through Jo'burg - about 4 hours total air time. This part of Africa is so different from anything that I have ever seen - mile after mile after mile of lush green land, uninhabited, and uncivilized. Victoria Falls is the big draw here, and you can see the mist from the falls rising into the air from many vantage points. It is the start of rainy season, which lasts through March - so it is muddy, muddy, muddy. Our driver navigated the water and mud-filled potholes and dirt roads with amazing dexterity. Some Australian women were on our flight with us, and said that Livingstone has not changed one bit since they were here 30 years ago. I would venture to say that that could be true for the last 100 years.

We are staying at the David Livingstone Safari Lodge and Spa, which is a bit of rustic luxury on the banks of the river, overlooking the Long Island Game Reserve. It is named after Dr. Livingstone, the one from which we get the phrase "Dr. Livingstone, I presume". We arrived and had a lovely lunch on the balcony while the rain poured down all around us - it was great to taste some of the local cuisine, my favorite being a vegetable dish made of pumpkin leaves, similar to creamed spinach. I am surprised at how good the food is here - and although it is not cheap (about $75 for lunch for 2 including tip), it is well-prepared and safe to eat.


The highlight of our afternoon was the sunset cruise along the Zambezi. We were right near many schools of hippos, floating in the muddy water and blinking at us with their dark eyes. I have heard many stories of their aggression, but we did not get close enough to spark it. I was delighted with their huge snouts and tiny flapping ears, and the size of the adults compared to the babies. We also saw many birds and a lone crocodile cruising for his supper.

Mosquitos are an issue here, and malaria was what drove the first white settlers away and to other lands. We sleep with the doors shut to keep out insects and monkeys, and spray ourselves to further discourage visitors in the night.


It is amazingly peaceful here, as I am writing in the early morning surrounded by the sounds of animals and humans getting ready for the day. I can't help but feel like an early traveller who has suddenly found herself in the middle of an untamed and beautiful paradise. You can feel the hardship of life here, but also the relaxed attitude with which the local people approach it. It is exotic, tropical, and slow-moving, and very simple. I could definitely use an extended stay at a place like this.