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Showing posts with label Saveur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saveur. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Butter Me Up

Last month, Saveur magazine featured one of my favorite things on earth, butter. It was like getting a Playboy magazine with the most voluptuous woman you have ever seen on the front cover. I started salivating immediately - and couldn't wait to see the pictures, read the articles and try the recipes that lay in store. Would there be a centerfold???


Sunday night, I decided to make a comforting supper featuring two of the recipes from the magazine, Risotto alla Milanese and Pound Cake.

Of course, part of the adventure is seeking out the ingredients - a treasure hunt that I always enjoy. Being that the risotto recipe called for 9 tsp. of unsalted butter as one of the main ingredients, I needed to find one that would give the right amount of creaminess and a strong flavor. Lo and behold, there it was in my local (*cough* overpriced *cough*) grocery store, Mollie Stone's: Delitia Parmigiano Reggiano "Il Burro". It uses the same cow's milk that is used to make the famous cheese, and has a sharp, nutty flavor.

The risotto was different than ones that I have made before, in that it uses saffron instead of wine to give the dish the traditional taste. But the method was the same - stirring, stirring, stirring. Risotto requires patience, but it is worth it. It turned out well - creamy and hearty and full of glutenous goodness. I served it with grilled asparagus wrapped in proscuitto for a touch of Italian-inspired spring.

The pound cake turned out very well - fool-proof, in fact. With just a little bit of technique, and the right sized pan (a 10-inch tube pan is suggested - my 9.25-inch Bundt pan was slightly too small, but still worked), anyone could make this. Keys to success: don't overmix, don't overcook. As a topping, I cut up fresh strawberries and bathed them in a lavender syrup/yogurt sauce which I learned to make from Eric Gower, the Breakaway chef - more on his recipes later.

These recipes are as simple and basic as they come - so variations (i.e. mushroom risotto, lemon glaze for the pound cake) are easy to imagine.

Risotto alla Milanese
(serves 4)

- 6 C. chicken stock
- 1/8 tsp. saffron threads
- 9 tbsp unsalted butter, preferably "Il Burro"
- 1 small yellow onion, chopped
- 2 C. vialone or arborio rice
- 1 C. grated grana padano


  • Bring stock to a bare simmer in a saucepan over med. heat. Put saffron and 1/2 C. stock into a small bowl; cover and let set aside to let soften. Cover stock, keep hot.
  • Heat 5 tbsp butter in a med. pot over med. heat. Add onions and cook, stirring, until softened, 2-3 min. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until opaque, about 4 min.
  • Add 1/2 C. stock. Cook, stirring often, until stock is mostly absorbed, 2-3 min. Add another 1/2 C. stock and repeat process until all of the stock is used, about 25 min.
  • Continue cooking rice until just al dente, 3 min.
  • Strain saffon from stock over a bowl; set saffron aside. Pour saffron-infused stock into rice and cook, stirring constantly, about 2 min. Gently stir in saffron threads.
  • Remove from heat. Stir in remaining butter and half the grated cheese. Serve with remaining cheese on the side.

Pound Cake
(serves 10-12)

- 12 oz. butter plus more for the pan, at room temperature (note: I used unsalted butter for the cake, and salted butter for the pan - this gave the cake a slight salty flavor on the outside, which was really nice)
- 2 tbsp. plus 3 C. flour
- 1 tsp. baking powder
- 1/2 tsp. fine salt
- 1 C. milk, at room temp
- 1 tsp pure almond extract
- 1 tsp. pure lemon extract
- 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
- 3 C. sugar
- 6 large eggs, at room temp
  • Heat oven to 325 degrees. Generously grease a 10" tube pan with butter. Add 2 tbsp flour, turn the pan to coat it evenly with flour, tap out any excess and set aside.
  • Using a sieve set over a bowl, sift together the remaining flour, baking powder, and salt. Repeat 2 more times. In a measuring vessel with a pourable spout, combine the milk and the extracts.
  • In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle, cream butter at med-low speed until light and fluffy, about 2 min.
  • Gradually add sugar, 1/4 C. at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Beat until satiny smooth, about 3 min.
  • Add 1 egg at a time to the butter mixture, beating for 15 seconds before adding another, and scraping down the bowl after each addition.
  • Reduce the mixer speed to low and alternately add the flour and the milk mixtures in 3 batches, beginning and ending with the flour. Scrape down sides of the bowl, beat until the batter is smooth and silky but no more.
  • Scrape batter into the prepared pan and firmly tap on counter to allow it to settle evenly. Bake until light golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out moist and clean, about 1 hour 15 min.
  • Let cool in cake pan on rack about 30 min. Invert cake onto rack - let cool completely before serving.