Cheap & Cheerful Chicken

I made this dish for the first time in London, with my cousin Viv, as a thank-you dinner for her parents. That was on my "Jamie Oliver" trip when I did so many things related to Jamie Oliver that it became kind of a running joke - dined at Fifteen, visited his parents' pub in Essex, the Cricketers, and made this dish from his book "Jamie's Dinners" (which I bought, signed, on that trip) for my aunt and uncle. We put it together in her ill-equipped flat (she is many great things, but not a cook) and it came out perfectly.

I love Jamie's food and his casual, intuitive style of cooking, but to me what really differentiates him as a celebrity chef is his commitment to giving back to the community and making real changes in the way that we eat. He created Fifteen as a way to give disadvantaged kids a chance at a culinary career, and he has been working on his campaign "School Dinners" for the past several years to show how inexpensive meals can still be tasty and healthy. "Jamie's Dinners" takes this philosopy home, as an attempt to show people that everyday meals can be easy, more cost effective, and healthier than take-away.


Recently my brother was hit by a car - he's OK! - but had found himself laid up on the couch and in danger of going into a fast-food coma. I went over to his apartment (and ill-equipped kitchen...sigh!) and made this dish to last for several meals throughout the week. I had to sub chili beans for the cannelini beans, and used 8 drumsticks instead of 4 whole legs, but the beauty of the recipe is that you can't really mess it up.

"Everyday Crispy Chicken with Sweet Tomatoes"

• 4 chicken legs, jointed
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• a big bunch of frsh basil, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped
• 2 big handfuls of red and yellow cherry tomatoes, halved, and ripe plum tomatoes, quartered
• 1 whole bulb of garlic, broken up into cloves
• 1 fresh red chili, finely chopped
• olive oil
• 1 can cannellini beans, drained

- Preheat oven to 350.
- Season chicken pieces all over and put them into a snug-fitting pan in one layer.
- Throw in all of the basil leaves and stalks, then chuck in your tomatoes.
- Scatter the garlic cloves into the pan with the chopped chili, and drizzle over some olive oil. Add the beans.
- Mix around a bit, pushing the tomatoes underneath.
- Place in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, turning the tomatoes halfway through, until the chicken skin is crisp and the meat falls off of the bone.
- Squeeze the garlic out of the skins before serving.

A Moveable Feast

Hard to believe that last week at this time we were in London, getting ready for Thanksgiving dinner prepared by friends. What a great time that was - a gathering of people from all over the world, brought together by an American tradition. It was different than being seated next to your aunt or grandparents, watching generations try to understand each other and get along, all in the name of turkey and stuffing. I definitely did not miss the nuances of family time - the ones who talk to much, drink too much, criticize too much. But what I love about Thanksgiving was very present - the smell of good food all over the house, the sound of laughter and clinking glasses, and an overall feeling of contentedness for the bounty that we are fortunate to have in our lives.


It is interesting to watch a meal that is meant to celebrate America being celebrated by people in another country - and one could easily feel that our holiday is being commercialized, and that the meaning is being diluted. But again, looking around the table, I thought of the Pilgrims and Indians, so different in their backgrounds, but (for the time being, anyway), brought together to share the land and combat the hardships of life in the New World. It makes me think of today's world - so frantic, over-scheduled, hurried. Our stresses are different than those of our forefathers, but we are nonetheless suffering: from anxiety, depression, and illnesses brought on by stress and poor diet. So when a group of people finds themselves in a "new world", i.e. an Australian in London, or a French person in Asia, it is no wonder that they have the urge to create new alliances and supportive groups of friends. In that way, we are very much like the Pilgrims, having escaped from our former confines (our hometowns and families), and making a new life elsewhere. In today's world, friends really are the new family.

Baddies We Love to Hate

English movies have some of the best/worst bad guys in film today. Think of Lock, Stock and 2 Smoking Barrels, Trainspotting, Layer Cake - the modern English gangster is a force to be reckoned with.

On the flight to London, we watched a movie called Sugarhouse, a story about a crack addict, a drug lord, and a desperate man in the wrong place at the wrong time. Who is the hero in this story, and who is the villain? That is unclear - certainly, all of them have unscrupulous motives. But each character has enough humanity that you care what is going to happen to them, and from one action-packed moment to the next, the outcome is uncertain.

The film shows a gritty and desperate side of London - a world that tourists would never know existed. Most people would probably identify with Tom - an upper-middle class man suddenly finding himself trapped in a world where there is no such thing as a fair fight, and where retribution is immediate and bloody. But he has a purpose there, too, as the film reveals.

The character of Hoodwink, the baddest baddie, is very well done. Played by Andy Serkis (most famous for playing Gollum in "Lord of the Rings"), he mixes rage with enough humanity to make him more of a person and less of a caricature. The opening scenes of him getting ready for his day are beautifully filmed and poetic.

I have to thank Virgin Atlantic for not editing their films. The violence and language are essential to the story. I read recently that American Airlines is following this trend, and I think it's good.

Old Soul

He walks away,
The sun goes down,
He takes the day but I'm grown,
And in your grey, in this blue shade
My tears dry on their own

Wow. That's what I have to say about the Amy Winehouse concert we saw last night at Brixton Academy.


What a contrast to my day spent amidst the idyllic and posh surroundings of North London. Brixton is in the heart of South London - rough, working-class, agressive. And as is the case with many struggling communities throughout the world, music is continually born there and rises above its humble roots to fill the space with passion and feeling.

Along with having been the home to a select number of artists, most recently the Streets, Brixton is the birthplace of both David Bowie and Mick Jones. Talk about street cred!

The theater iself is great, both acoustically and spacially. The first floor slopes downward, so that anywhere you stand offers an unobstructed view of the stage.

The crowd waited anxiously for Amy to come onstage, remembering other concerts where she has kept the audience waiting and then refused to play. Estimated on-stage time: 9:15pm, actual arrival time: 10:00pm.

She looked much prettier than I expected. She wore her signature beehive and exaggerated eye liner, with a micro-mini dress that showed off her impressive gams. It didn't seem extreme - it worked for her. Contrary to her media image, she was neither emaciated nor intoxicated, and gave a fantastic performance. Her band and back-up singers were full of energy and the music was awesome!! The show incorporated elements of soul, r & b, ska and Amy's own personal style. Her voice is incredible, defying race, age or era. Every song was arranged and performed perfectly.


All in all, one of the best shows I have seen in this year.

UPDATE 11/27: I just read that Ms. Winehouse has cancelled the rest of her tour, due to health reasons and under doctor's orders. It was a miracle that we got to see her!

As Above, So Below

After coming to Highgate for the past 20 years, I finally had the chance to visit the Highgate Cemetery yesterday. My aunt Emilie and Uncle Godfrey decided to go with me, as it was the first sunny day in a week and they wanted to get out and enjoy it.

Dating from the 1850's, the cemetery is a wonderful wooded place with gravestones covering most of the land, some so overgrown that they are barely recognizable. The most visited (and in my opinion, least impressive) grave site is that of Karl Marx. The second most famous is that of George Eliot - and there is a host of other writers and political figures at rest there.

There are main paths leading around and down the hill, but what is most fun is to take the side paths among the gravestones and go exploring. Wet leaves squish underfoot and if you are quiet, you can spot the resident species of wildlife enjoying their wooded haven. We saw 2 little foxes running down a path, as well as a badger (we think), and many squirrels. Emilie told me that England used to have only red squirrels, but then the American brown squirrel was brought over and they destroyed the red squirrels. I am sure there is a political commentary in there somewhere.

Less visible, but not necessarily more elusive, residents are the ghosts that haunt the site. We didn't see any yesterday, but it is easy to imagine a spectre appearing among the shadows of the trees or resting comfortably on a moss-covered headstone. There is definitely an eerie stillness to the place and I would not want to be caught there after dark. In the 1970's there was a sighting and witch hunt for a vampire ghost, and the subject is still under discussion amongst the local witchcraft-practicing folk.

Legends aside, graveyards have never been scary places for me. I find them peaceful and calming, the epitaphs a testimony to the love that each person was given in life. There are sad ones to be sure (children, men killed in service), but they are a reminder of the fragility and unpredictability of life.

Afterwards we went to lunch at the Cafe Mozart, back to the routine feeding our bodies and going about our days. For me, it was with a renewed appreciation for this time we have above ground, and the simple gift of a beautiful autumn day spent with loved ones.

Yesterday being Thanksgiving day in America, I felt that my heart and thoughts were in the right place, even from across the pond.

When Woe Fades Away

Bereavement a poem
by Percy Bysshe Shelley

How stern are the woes of the desolate mourner
As he bends in still grief o'er the hallowed bier,
As enanguished he turns from the laugh of the scorner,
And drops to perfection's remembrance a tear;
When floods of despair down his pale cheeks are streaming,
When no blissful hope on his bosom is beaming,
Or, if lulled for a while, soon he starts from his dreaming,
And finds torn the soft ties to affection so dear.
Ah, when shall day dawn on the night of the grave,
Or summer succeed to the winter of death?
Rest awhle, hapless victim! and Heaven will save
The spirit that hath faded away with the breath.
Eternity points, in its amaranth bower
Where no clouds of fate o'er the sweet prospect lour,
Unspeakable pleasure, of goodness the dower,
When woe fades away like the mist of the heath

You Don't Drink, You Don't Smoke...What Do You Do?

We saw the band "Good Shoes" last night at the Astoria. Just the type of venue that I like - old, beer-soaked, medium-sized and no frills. The guitars were grinding, beer was being tossed and the crowd was in great spirits.

I may leave the "Sex, Drugs and Rock and Roll" days to the 20-somethings, but I still love rocking out to a great band.

South Ken and the V and A

Spending time in Knightsbridge and Chelsea makes me feel like Holly Golightly with my nose pressed up to the glass in front of Tiffany's. I love it there, and have no trouble envisioning a life in one of the well-appointed townhouses filled with antiques and shopping bags full of shoes from Emma Hope and French Sole. Exiting the South Kensington tube station, everything seems brighter and more polished than before, and even the air in the Tube around there seems less riddled with soot than elsewhere.

The place to go for the most fashion with the least strain to the pocketbook is the wonderful Victoria & Albert Museum. Some of the best exhibits I have seen in recent years have been there. Last year's exhibit on Modernism was truly amazing, and a great example of the amount of thought and work that go into curating one of their exhibits.


Aside from their permanent fasion gallery (a nice-sized although poorly lit room with a good range of displays from may eras), this season the featured exhibit is "The Golden Age of Couture", showcasing fashion from Paris and London from the 40's and 50's. Nowhere but here has it been more evident to me that I was born in the wrong generation, with the wrong social status. The couture creations are breathtaking, from the tiny wasp-waists of Dior to the meticulous tailoring of Balenciaga, to the lavishly detailed Balmain. Scattered throughout the exhibit are videos, large and small, of couture fashion shows, so that you are able to see the real magesty of the garments by their fit on the body. And then you are permitted to get up close (well, close enough) and see the tiny stitches, beadwork, and lustre of the fabrics, from duchesse satin to wool to drapy sheer silk. It is enough to make you want to chuck out your entire mass-produced wardrobe and save up to buy only couture, one outfit at a time. The middle third of the exhibit focuses on fashion sketching and photography, which I adore as much as I do the clothes. The theatricality of pale skin, blood-red lips, a black dress and a perfectly shaped hat cannot be matched. It was one of the few times in fashion that illustration and photography have been so much in sync.


After a giddy hour and a half with couture, I then spent another hour walking through the adjoining exhibit, "The Art of Lee Miller". She has always fascinated me, both as a person and for her photography. This exhibit does a nice job of pulling together the fragments of her multi-faceted life. It shows her modeling days and early years as Man Ray's muse and lover, and then moves into her world travels and photojournalism. The famous photograph of her in Hitler's bathtub is striking, as are the ones of post-Blitz London. In the end she married for a third time, and enjoyed a rural farm life, filled with famous visitors that she put to work. What a life to have led - hard to imagine one of today's fashion models moving so far beyond the runway.


One day I am going to have to take some time to explore the Asian art, silver galleries, and portraits in this enormous museum. But as long as they keep having great exhibits like these, the permanent collections may just have to wait.

Raising the Bar

Aside from the numerous pubs we find ourselves frequenting when in London-town, the city also has a high-end drinking culture that is a visual relief from the polished wood and worn tapestries of the various "Arms" and "Heads" found on every street corner.

Some of the best places are hidden down unmarked staircases, practically requiring a treasure map and secret password to get in. A favorite of mine, introduced to me by my cousin a few years ago, is the Crazy Bear bar in Fitzrovia. Walking down Whitfield Street, you could easily miss it except for a subtle welcome mat and a staff member casually standing by the door in front of a velvet rope. Once you step inside, the impeccable service begins, and you can't help feeling a little bit VIP. The bar, located below ground, is dark and sexy, with cowhide chairs and red leather booths,and things that sparkle seductively in the night. The people are as pretty as the surroundings, and a silky smooth waitress is always on hand to bring you cocktail after cocktail. While not cheap (average £8-10, which translates to about $20 per drink for us) the cocktails are delicious, and you can order nibbles from the Thai restaurant upstairs to offset the inevitable buzz that sneaks up on you.

But the real test of a great night-spot is the bathroom, and the Crazy Bear does not disappoint. My advice would be to get up well before you absolutely have to go. The doors are completely hidden against a mirrored wall and you have to rely on your intuition (or a customer exiting) to find the right one. You will feel the eyes staring at you from the bar as your confusion identifies you as a first-timer. Once inside, all surfaces are covered by mirrored tiles, and the sink is a shared wall between the men's and women's rooms, so that your hands might find themselves sharing the space with those of a stranger.

After you have had your fill of spendy libations, dinner is easily found on nearby Charlotte Street. I like Dim T, a lively Asian-mix restaurant which has a upscale, modern setting but doesn't cost a fortune. You can create your own noodle dish, enjoy steaming baskets of dim sum, or have a traditional hot dish like duck curry.

Other bars on my list to visit are the Player (a very cool place in Soho which we stumbled upon years ago but have not been back), and Sketch.

It Was a Dark and Stormy Night

London in November - short days, rain, musty old pubs. Wool sweaters, umbrellas, and Wellies. In other words, perfect.

We had a relatively uneventful flight on Virgin Atlantic. I watched Michael Moore's "Sicko" which practically convinced me to move to the UK, or at the very least, Canada. It's hard to watch the rest of the world laugh at our work ethics (2nd only to Asia), worthless dollar, and rediculous health-care system.

We took the Tube from Heathrow and met my cousin Viv in Leicester Square and had lunch at Wagamama. So good, so fast - real food always tastes best after a long flight. Then we took a black cab back to her flat in Highgate. I love black cabs. These are nothing like the taxis in the U.S. - the drivers actually learn the trade of driving and knowing the city. Their training, called "The Knowledge", can take several years, and it is extremely intensive as far as knowing where everything is, especially in Central London. Our driver was great and we caught up on current events (football, government) on the way.

Last night we had dinner with my cousins Robbie & Viv in Islington at a pub called "The Winchester". Cumberland sausages, mashed potatoes, and a creamy pint of Guinness - delicious. Then we met friends (from SF and London) at another pub and had a great time just hanging out and catching up. Being a Londoner means that you spend a good portion of your time out and about - pubs are smoke-free now which makes it so much more tolerable.

Ta-Ta!

And, we're off! I can hardly believe it - third trip to Europe in 5 months?!! How spoiled am I? We are almost (read: barely) packed and getting on a plane in a few short hours. London weather promises to be chilly, damp and dark. The beer promises to be cold, thick, and plentiful. In fact, Mike & James are already there and face-deep in a pint as we speak!

And lest you feel the tiniest bit sorry for me (right), we will not be missing out on Thanksgiving. One of the American girls that Charles & co. met at Burning Man will be hosting a full-on turkey dinner at her flat on Friday night.

Oh, and did I mention that my cousin Viv is taking Olga and me to see Amy Winehouse (that is, if she can stay out of trouble long enough)? Yes, yes, let the envy begin...

All right then, Happy Thanksgiving to all, and to all a good night!

The Fabric of Our Lives

So, next week we are going to London for Thanksgiving. Yes, back to the mother country that our forefathers fled from.

While we are there, we are going to go to Fabric, a nightclub known throughout the world for electronic music. So many great DJ's have played there - Sasha, Digweed, Carl Cox, Chemical Brothers, etc. Next Friday night is an event called Fabriclive, a 2 day/night event with multiple acts in all 3 rooms of the club. One of the performers will be FreqNasty, who plays at Burning Man - Charles ran into him in the Phoenix airport last month, and said he was very cool. It will be great to see him again.

The headliner will be the Stanton Warriors. They're best known for a song from Stanton Sessions, Volume 2 called "Get 'Em High" and a great remix of Gorrillaz "Feel Good Inc."
Why is it that UK DJ's do breakbeat so well? I don't know, but I can't wait to get my grove on to these guys!!

Here is a track from their Fabric compilation album.