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Monday, January 19, 2009

For Every Season, Churn, Churn, Churn

Last week I was invited to a very special tasting event - my friend Claire has been teaching herself to make ice cream, and she decided to give Michael and me a tasting of her latest creations. Oh, and what a tasting it was! She carefully planned the order in which we sampled the different flavors, and gave us the background on each one. It was marvelous - we were impressed and delighted with each sweet treat that passed our lips.

There was nothing at all commercial about these flavors - they were much more dense and flavorful than the best store brand could ever aspire to be. Amazingly, she made all of these by hand with a manual ice cream maker rather than the electric ones that most home cooks use. Her elbow grease paid off - I am still dreaming of our afternoon in Ice Cream Paradise.

Up first, Apricot/Pistachio. This ice cream had a very creamy taste, without the use of an egg custard in the base. Strong apricot flavor and subtle pistachio giving it an earthy nuttiness and texture. I had not known that ice cream could taste like this - the fruit just filled your mouth in a way that almost seemed that you were eating something healthy.


Second was Saffron/Coconut. This is another one that tasted unbelievably creamy, this time from the coconut milk. It was smooth and velvety, with the beautiful deep yellow color of the saffron. The savory/spice element along with the sweetness made it very adult in flavor, definitely for the sophisticated palate.


The next flavor was not for the faint of heart: Aztec Hot Chocolate - a peppered version of classic chocolate with a great kick. The flavor progression was unique - first, chocolate, then the bite of the chili pepper. It was intense and a pleasure to eat.


The next flavor, Roasted Banana, could easily be an "everyday" flavor for me. I love bananas, and roasting them gives them a more complex, caramelized flavor. This one had a texture that was most similar to commercial ice creams, from the way your spoon would drag over it.


And last but not least, Zabaglione. Zabaglione is one of my favorite desserts in the world, an Italian whipped custard made with egg yolks, sugar, and plenty of Marsala wine - in the finest restaurants, they will make it tableside for you. This ice cream captured it perfectly, with a silky custardy smoothness and the wonderful taste and aroma of Marsala. Like the wedding dress at the end of a fashion show, it was a step up in elegance and sophistication.


For great gourmet recipes like this, the definitive bible is David Lebovitz's "The Perfect Scoop". He also has an entertaining blog that he writes from his home in Paris, which is a celebration of food and technique, and living in a foreign country. Any of these recipes is guaranteed to leave you with a smile on your face, and the churning desire for more (sorry, couldn't resist!)