Sometimes San Francsico is too slick for me. It seems that every new place that opens up has the curse of the "cool kid": the same aesthetic (modern), menu offerings (house-cured charcuterie), and even the same font on their menus [insert favorite font here]. They even seem to have the same world-weary hipsters working behind the counter. Going out to lunch can feel like that movie "Groundhog Day", an endless repetition of the same thing. And just like anything that is repetitious, it gets boring very quickly.
At times like this, I miss New York. Gritty, real, old-world New York, filled with corner stores and grumpy old men, and people who don't have time to bullshit. I miss good, simple, honest food that doesn't include truffle oil or waffle-cut potato chips. I miss a hearty sandwich wrapped in butcher paper that is so savory and so overflowing that you eat it standing outside on the curb, leaning over so as not to drip on your work clothes.
Well, we have been blessed with our own version of such a lunch place, called Pal's Takeaway. It's a wonderful combination of the old and the new - the old being that it's located at the back of a non-descript corner store called Tony's Market. The new is that they have slightly twisted the classics, but retained the heart and soul of the originals.
You would almost miss it if you were in the Mission looking for a place to get lunch. You might walk in to get a cold drink, or a pack of gum, but a bahn mi? Hardly. The sign is quite humble as well, giving away nothing about the treasures within.
Even when you walk inside, it seems like you have surely missed it. It looks like your friendly, neighborhood corner market, and not much else.
Tucked in a corner is a small counter. And this is where you place your order, then pay at the cashier, and wait for your name to be called.
Jeff Mason is the Pal who takes your order. He has a great, dry sense of humor, and a bit of East Coast charm. He's a great guy. His partner, David Knopp is the Pal who makes the sandwiches. That's it, just these two guys. Simple. Your food is handed to you, and then you take it away (takeaway...).
We tried several things, the names of which I have reprinted from the ever-changing daily menu, which is always a pleasure to read. I have added a few of my own comments.
Becker Lane Lao Roast Pork Wanna Bahnha Mi with Blue Herron Baby Scallion, Cilantro, Carrot Daikon, Cucumber and Jalapeno on Acme Roll. Herbed Canola Mayo. - This sandwich was rich and filling, heartier that your typical Bahn Mi that you would get in little Saigon. Very very moist meat.
Indian-style Chicken Salad Sandwich with Pickled Shallots, Shredded Blue Herron Little Gem Lettuce and Asian Celery Leaf. - a light-ish version of chicken salad, with good spices and flavor.
Riverdog Real Free-Range Egg Salad Sandwich with Asparagus on Acme Pain de Mie bread - my favorite sandwich of the day - fresh fresh fresh, satisfying, great bread.
Compendium of Spring Peas Salad with Fresh Shelling, Sugar Snap, and Snow Peas, Fresh Herbs, Mint, Champagne Vinegar, Olive Oil - simply lovely, crunchy, a beautiful cacophony of green things.
And to be fair, Tony's Market is no slouch. They have an impressive assortment of products, including a full rack of organic chocolate bars, and my favorite Itoen Oi Ocha Iced Green Tea.
To complete your meal, a quick hop across the street to Dynamo Donuts is a must. Again, it's a question of...uh, where's the food? I saw the coffee stand and was looking around for a display case of the donuts.
No display case, no 30 varieties of donuts. Just a few refined cake stands and signs.
We tried the Chocolate Spice, Bacon Apple Maple, and Banana de Leche. The best by far is the Chocolate Spice, which they also sell at Four Barrel Coffee. Four Barrel is what they serve at Dynamo, too.
Lately, I am liking the idea of a place offering a few choices, and doing it well. It seems so much more inspired than a static menu item with everything under the sun on it. This little section of the Mission, on 24th and Hampshire, seems to have cornered the market on this idea. Excuse the pun, and go check it out - it's well worth it.
