This recipe is one that I have enjoyed making for many years. Well, enjoyed is perhaps the wrong word. I enjoy the result. The process is a bit of a PITA.
It comes from the book Charlie Trotter Cooks at Home. Charlie Trotter was one of the first of the super-chefs back in the 80s and 90s. His Chicago restaurant, simply called Charlie Trotter's, was impossible to get into and had a price-tag that called for special occasions only. It's a little bit different now - people are really into food as a form of entertainment and balk much less at paying a for a meal what you might have paid for 2 orchestra seat theater tickets. But back then, if you went to Charlie Trotter's, it was a pretty big deal.
I am fortunate enough to come from parents who have always been really into food, whether it is high end or down-and-dirty cheap. About 15 years ago, my dad tried his luck at securing a reservation at the "kitchen table", which you could only get by calling at a certain time, over and over, until you got in. Well, he got in, and my husband and I flew to Chicago for what was to be one of the most memorable meals of my life.
The kitchen table is unique because you get to see all of the inner workings of the restaurant. And this was no barking-orders, sauce-sloshing operation. It felt more like an operating room - polished sparkling clean, with everyone brandishing knives and moving them at lightning speed. At the helm of the ship was Charlie Trotter himself, and my god, "perfectionist" doesn't even begin to describe him. I can't tell you how many plates he stopped from going out because they didn't look just right. I was glad to be on my side of the table, and not on one of the stations.
That said, he was a gracious host to us. He took us on a tour of his tv studio and wine cellar, and even let my mom and me "spy" on my husband and dad, using the hidden cameras. And the meal - oh my gosh. A special menu prepared just for us that had so many wondrous tastes, it was like eating a piece of fine art.
All this leads up to the fact that his meticulous attention to detail has paid off in some really amazing food. This rather rustic tart is no exception. It's all made from scratch, with very few ingredients, but tastes decidedly elegant.
Every time I make it, I can almost feel Charlie Trotter looking over my shoulder. Making sure I follow the directions, chastising me for complaining about any labor-intensive steps. When my whiny internal voice starts to say, "I don't know what julienned means!", he reminds me that he was entirely self taught, and that was before the internet. The bottom line is, the final product is a direct result of the labor you put into it. And whether you are cooking a $150 meal or a simple Sunday dinner at home, you owe it to yourself to put your best foot forward.
Bacon and Caramelized Onion Tart
Dough:
- 2 C. flour
- 1/2 t. salt
- 1 C. cold unsalted butter, chopped
- 2/3 C. ice water
Filling:
- 3 large yellow onions, julienned
- 2 T. unsalted butter
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 lb. bacon, julienned
- 1 egg yolk
- 1/2 C. heavy whipping cream
- 2 t. fresh thyme leaves
To prepare the dough:
Place the flour, salt and butter in a medium mixing bowl.
Using a pastry cutter or fork, cut the butter into the flour until it forms pea-sized chunks
Add the water and mix with a fork until the dough just comes together (it should have visible streaks of butter).
Form the dough into a disk, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
To prepare the filling:
Cook the onions with the butter in a large saute pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 or 20 minutes, or until the onions are golden brown and caramelized. Season with salt and pepper, and cool to room temperature.
[my note here: this process has always taken me at least 40 minutes. You need to be patient and make sure the onions really start to release their sugars and become sticky]
Cook the bacon in a large saute pan over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until crisp. Drain on paper towels and cool to room temperature. Combine the bacon with the onions.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Whisk together the egg yolk, cream, and thyme in a small bowl.
To prepare the tart:
On a floured surface, roll out the dough 1/8 in thick, and then press into an 8 or 9 inch tart pan, trimming any excess. Spoon the onion-bacon mixture on top of the dough, pour in the cream mixture, and top with freshly ground black pepper.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until just firm to the touch and light golden brown. Cool slightly before cutting and serving.
